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Author Topic: Baseboard and 'foamboard'  (Read 667 times)

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Online ntpntpntp

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #15 on: September 01, 2018, 08:22:04 pm »
Of course there are occasions where a flat top still makes sense.  For example,  my current project  is a loco depot with old steam museum around the turntable, and modern diesel depot having a traverser and shed.  The trackwork is dense and fills a lot of the board.  The land in this area would naturally be quite flat.

I will still try and add a little contouring to the front edge in due course,as part of making the scenery


Nick.   2016 celebrating the 20th anniversary of "Königshafen" exhibition layout!

Offline Innovationgame

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #16 on: September 01, 2018, 08:25:21 pm »
Aye after a visit to the local timber merchants this morning I also decided 1/2" was a bit much. 9mm it is then.

What do you mean by 'open frame'? If I only put wood where the track is gonna be, what do the buildings and fields etc sit on?
To me, an open frame means that you have a lattice of cross members and cut the baseboard to fit the track layout, station and other things you want on the same level.  You can elevate or sink other features as required.
« Last Edit: September 01, 2018, 08:39:35 pm by Innovationgame, Reason: Typo »
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Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #17 on: September 01, 2018, 08:29:42 pm »
Open frame is excellent when building a cityscape as you can have have a flock of batsblock of flats at ground level with the railway trundling past at a higher level with the block still appearing above the railway. Hope that makes sense.

Offline Wolfie

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #18 on: September 01, 2018, 08:44:04 pm »
It does have to be said that my planned layout is pretty flat (a rural station surrounded by fields) except for the beck which will be at one end.

Offline PLD

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #19 on: September 01, 2018, 09:06:39 pm »
As far as wiring and point motors go can you not still fit them on the underside and make the wires a bit longer?
Wiring - either you have to run the wires over the surface - unsightly; run it in grooves in the surface and bury it - messy, problematic for fault finding and and future modifications; or run it through the entire depth of the foam to the underside of the board - more difficult than with a thin surface and have you got a long enough drill bit??

Point motors - issue is the length of the operating rod required. you can extend them, but the longer you go, the more 'slop' and lost motion you have to allow for...

Offline Bealman

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #20 on: September 01, 2018, 11:31:27 pm »


Open frame baseboard on my layout. Notice that the house is below the level of the railway, but above the level of the river.
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Offline The Q

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #21 on: September 02, 2018, 08:11:21 am »
My own favourite  method of construction, is a sheet of 2inch thick extruded polystyrene foam as a base, 
 If there are hillsides or valleys to be created,  then 1/2, 1, or 2 inch thick polystyrene  is stuck on top, in layers if required , this is trimmed all round the edge by glued on 1/4 inch ply. Small wood buttons inset into the foam corners glued and screwed to. The ply extending up at the back to support hillsides  forming  the back scene and at the sides mimicking the hill form.

The poly is then covered in j cloths coated in a mixture  of PVA and polyfilla the foam forming a core for a hard scenic shell.

Boards are joined together with adjustable toggle clamps, screwed into ply,  bolts in the end plys are used as alignement
No screwing on backscenes later as then you are doubling the side frames and adding weight.
The poly is then covered in j cloths coated in a mixture  of PVA and polyfilla the foam forming a core for a hard scenic shell.

Point motors, I like mounted on the back in protected hollows then using tube and wire to the turnout.  I very much dislike lying underneath layouts repairing and installing  things.
If you have to fit a point motor into foam,  then a hollow is carved,  and a piece of thin plywood , glued in with PVA  to form a hard base to screw to.
« Last Edit: September 02, 2018, 08:18:47 am by The Q »

Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #22 on: September 02, 2018, 09:20:54 am »
Open construction also helps with gradients as, from a flat board, you need to raise the track some 50mm to pass over another track, whereas with open construction one track can drop 25mm while the other rises 25mm. Same result but a lot easier to accomplish.

Offline petejones

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #23 on: September 02, 2018, 11:05:45 pm »
I found that a train running across foamboard was very noisy.

Offline Bealman

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #24 on: September 03, 2018, 10:27:40 am »
Not sure if these photos help or not, but hopefully they show the concept of open framework.

Trackbed level, landscape going up and down. Baseboard profile cut to suit.





Last one blurred, because I was getting the car out at the time!  :-[
« Last Edit: September 04, 2018, 01:52:05 am by Bealman »
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #25 on: September 03, 2018, 10:32:37 am »
@Bealman
George - the more I see of your layout the more I want to see as we only get tantalising glimpses of some of it. I know you're restoring it but please crack on and then do a vid for us ;)

Offline Wolfie

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #26 on: September 05, 2018, 11:53:19 pm »
There is only one place that I am likely to want to alter the terrain height and that is where the beck is, the rest is pretty flat

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Re: Baseboard and 'foamboard'
« Reply #27 on: September 07, 2018, 03:59:22 pm »
There is only one place that I am likely to want to alter the terrain height and that is where the beck is, the rest is pretty flat

Thinking back, I recall that at one point I was considering using a large foam insulation sheet to raise up my flat baseboard of similar size to yours. In retrospect I'm glad I didn't, as it's not a material which is intended to serve as a flat stable surface. Having worked with smaller sections of it, it does compress fairly easily so you'd very likely end up with a somewhat lumpy uneven surface which would make laying level track more difficult than it would otherwise be, unless you laid another layer of plywood or something over the foam.

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