:helpneededsign:
Planning Software:
I am looking to build my own control panels / mimic diagrams using wood and Perspex with line diagrams laser printed, under the Perspex . Can anyone recommend any good software to plan this? Would track planning software do the trick? Panel sizes are approx A4 and A4 folded in half, longwise. Currently I'm using MS PowerPoint but it's not great for this, particularly if I move things around!
Any recommendations?
Many thanks!
I'm not 'pooter savvy enough for a program so came up with this...........
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=22084.msg507777#msg507777 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=22084.msg507777#msg507777)
However, I believe @Zogbert Splod (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=4202) may be able to help you out.
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/65/1353-120518164059.jpeg) (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=gallery;sa=view&id=65257)
For the control panels for our club layout "Holgate", I used the drawing function in MS Word. The diagrams were then printed out, laminated and glued to the top surface of the control box.
I used MS Word for my panels as well, although I didn't bother with the laminating stuff - just stuck tape on to a white polycarbonate panel.
I believe MS Word drawing is the same drawing package used in other MS apps like Powerpoint. Its pretty easy to use although sometimes things move around when you're not expecting!!
:) :beers:
As long as you only need straight lines and 45deg angles MS Paint does a good job.
Paul
Inkscape is another good program
I just used Anyrail. Made up a schematic and then exported as jpeg. The resulting picture can then be manipulated in a dtp.
cheers
Kirky
I used PowerPoint.
@DarrwestLU6 (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=6745)
The dreaded Nobster tagged me on this thread. All I can really add is that I use a very old CAD prog to do all of my drawings of this nature. (AutoSketch 2.0) I can't recommend that software unless you have a very old machine to load it into, I use an aged laptop to run it. It is actually a 16 bit prog!
I have tried using the MS Office stuff but I really can't get on with it. I find it quirky. Only word that fits for me.
DarrwestLU6, have you uploaded your track plan on any other forum thread? It may help people to help you if we know what you are trying to achieve.
Allan.....
@Newportnobby (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=264)
I use (and recommend) Paint.net, an open source program somewhere between Paint and Photoshop. Simple but effective. This is my simple control panel for my N-club modules and switching layout.
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/65/4684-130518223357.jpeg)
Corel Draw.
The advantage of PowerPoint over more bespoke graphics package is features like distribute vertically - you can draw 12 lines for your fiddle yard and then space them evenly at the touch of a button. Very satisfying.
I'm sure you can do it in the various graphics packages, but it's a bit 'sledgehammer to crack a walnut' IMO.
I'm a big fan of Visio, I've used it for years for all my layout diagramming, buildings, decal production etc.
Recently at work we've been using Draw-IO which does a very similar job to Visio and is available free.
For control panels I design in Visio and print on paper, but transfer the lines to aluminium sheet and use car striping tape to mark out the trackwork. Switches and LEDs are then directly mounted on the aluminium.
I use Xara for most drawing work on the PC - also web design, although my current site uses the Weebly designer.
I have not yet built a panel using an Xara produced fascia print, although a friend has built a couple using the same design principle. Previously I had masked the track plan on the reverse side of perspex and painted with enamel/acrylic paint, then glossed over the whole thing. When viewed from the front the paint is nice and flat against the rear face of the perspex.
A couple of designs are my 'Robertsfield' panel fascia and 'Bridgtown' Signalling Plan:
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/65/1322-110518220607.jpeg)
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/65/1322-230518174425.jpeg)
Below are some photos of the panel I built for Crawley MRS' 'West Tilgate' using the painted approach - one thing I did learn from it is enamel paints give a crisper finish than acrylics when removing the masking tape!:
The plan drawn in reverse, pilot holes drilled, with the masking tape removed as each colour is applied.
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/65/1322-230518175514-65618894.jpeg)
The completed fascia prior to opening out the switch and LED holes.
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/65/1322-230518175514-656181480.jpeg)
The fascia mounted in the panel; all switches fitted and LEDs progressively being installed and connected.
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/65/1322-230518175328-65617566.jpeg)
Inside rear face of the fascia with track lines drawn over the gloss emulsion to indicate the track lines for reference during assembly.
(http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/gallery/65/1322-230518175301-655991319.jpeg)
Cheers,
Mark
@Pelhama (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=1322)
Hi Mark
Can you remember what thickness perspex you used for the painted facia?
Ta
Kirky
@Pelhama (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=1322)
Hi Mark
Can you remember what thickness perspex you used for the painted facia?
Ta
Kirky
[/quote]
Hi Kirky,
If I recall correctly, it was around 4mm. The LED bezels didn't fit quite as designed, but it was considered to be more sturdy given the panel size.
In hindsight it would probably have been better with 2-3mm and provide more support in the woodwork.
You have to be very careful drilling the holes as the Perspex chips/cracks easily - one panel I built I hand drilled all the holes - literally holding a drill bit and turning it manually. It can be done with power drills, but take your time with it.
Cheers,
Mark
The perspex I used is, in reality, a cheap clear acylic sheet called 'Liteglaze' and it's available in 4ft x 2ft or 2ft x 1ft sheets I seem to recall. As Mark says, it pays to do everything with hand tools and still it can easily fracture. I used a razor saw (slowly) to cut it to size and a hand drill (even more slowly) to create necessary holes. I got this in the glazing department at my local builders merchants and it really is cheap as chips. As a rough estimate I'd say it was about 2½-3mm thick.
I have usually cut perspex as if it were very thick, brittle plasticard - several passes with a Stanley knife, then snap it across a sturdy straight edge - I have been know to have to cut a replacement panel!
I find this method tends to leave a tidier finish, with just a small amount of burring to remove compared to one I cut with a saw.
The LEDs on the West Tilgate panel used the single piece 'bezels' which are quite large, requiring an 8mm hole. Previous panels used the two-part LED 'clips', but the latter are designed for thinner sheet material. It is possible to use the two-part clips on thicker sheet material - the correct technique is for sheet material 1.5 times the optimum thickness, apply 4 time the brute force and ignorance. Too much brute force will require either an excessive amount of ignorance, or a new sheet of Perspex.
Cheers,
Mark
@Pelhama (http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?action=profile;u=1322)
Mark - thanks for the info and photos - looks really good!
I don't know if I was just lucky, but I've managed to drill perspex before using a high speed wood drill (the flat type) rather than a twist drill.
When I fit my 'proper' perspex to the main layout I have been advised to use HSS drill bits and take my time over it :hmmm:
When I was working, the guys in the fabrication workshop said to drill slowly with a blunt HSS drill, heating and softening the interface. This is to stop the drill biting off too much and cracking the sheet. For cutting sheet it was recommended to use a fine toothed table saw or a jigsaw with a slow feed rate.
Haven't broken one as yet.