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Author Topic: Northcote TMD  (Read 724 times)

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Offline Ted

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #15 on: September 25, 2018, 03:56:29 pm »
Looks good to me, although you'll have running issues with such warped rail! :D ;)
Ted's Excellent Adventure - lots of imagery of my 'workbench', locos and what I'm modelling.

Ted TMD Layout Progress - Era 8/9 Diesel Depot - 8ft Wide DCC

Offline Bill Badger

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #16 on: September 25, 2018, 04:16:02 pm »
Browsing flickr, my rollercoaster isn't far off 1980s prototype in some cases...   :worried:

Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #17 on: September 25, 2018, 04:31:44 pm »
I also need some legs!


Me too. I think mine are shot :-[

Offline Bill Badger

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #18 on: September 25, 2018, 07:23:10 pm »
As it happens, you're not the only one. I suspect attacking some old bits of IKEA shelving to make something to support the layout will be easier than fixing my battered pins! Managed to tear my left calf running across the road after the school drop-off last week - wish I'd done it doing something exciting  :-[. No running or cycling for at least 6 to 8 weeks  :doh:

Offline Bill Badger

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #19 on: September 25, 2018, 08:19:20 pm »
I'm thinking of splitting the levels to add some interest and help with the view blocking of the rear running line. The idea was to raise the main depot area by 5mm or so. I know cork is the traditional material, but I was wondering if there is anything else that people have used, perhaps some sort of foam that will be easy to glue (below to baseboard / above for track and scenic)? This would allow me cut in to seat buildings and install point controls etc. Any thoughts?

Offline Bill Badger

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #20 on: October 16, 2018, 11:48:17 pm »
Managed to get some time over the last couple of weeks to finish preparing the baseboard (varnish 'out' and grey primer / undercoat 'in') and get the first track laid. Finished gluing last night and wired up today. Tested tonight and all seems fine.






The track is the new(ish) concrete sleeper / flat bottom rail flexi from Finetrax, forming the 'backdrop' through line (i.e. the Down Slow where it runs away from the fast lines to link to Northcote Junction, depot and goods yard - in my mind anyway). I'm very impressed with the track. Given that its Code 40 with flexible sleeper base units, it took a lot of tweaking with a metal rule to get it down smooth and straight(ish). There are a couple of small wobbles, but they aren't visible from side on and from the end they look no worse than you would see in a photo of prototype BR track. I've posted a comparison shot with a length of Peco Streamline (granted with wooden sleepers); let's just say I'd never consider using the Peco track again.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2018, 10:30:29 am by Bill Badger »

Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #21 on: October 17, 2018, 10:22:35 am »
Out of curiosity could a pair of straight tracksettas still fit snuggly in the FineTrax?
(I use tracksettas in pairs)

Offline Bill Badger

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #22 on: October 17, 2018, 10:28:18 am »
You've got me curious too; I have never used them and, to be honest, I had a vague notion that they were only used to give set radius curves. The gauge must be the same, although as the code 40 isn't as 'high', I don't know if that would cause an issue?

I relied on my trusty steel rule which has never let me down when building 4mm track. The Finetrax code 40 is so bendy though, having another option in the bank may be handy for the more easily visible lines.
« Last Edit: October 17, 2018, 10:32:23 am by Bill Badger »

Offline Newportnobby

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #23 on: October 17, 2018, 10:33:18 am »
At first I tried using just the one, sliding it along the track whilst pinning through the holes provided in the tracksetta, but still found small 'wobbles'. Using two and doing the same seems to negate this.

Offline Bill Badger

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #24 on: October 17, 2018, 12:42:53 pm »
For the cost of them, I think I'll get a couple.

Offline Ashio

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Re: Northcote TMD
« Reply #25 on: October 17, 2018, 01:53:15 pm »
I'm thinking of splitting the levels to add some interest and help with the view blocking of the rear running line. The idea was to raise the main depot area by 5mm or so. I know cork is the traditional material, but I was wondering if there is anything else that people have used, perhaps some sort of foam that will be easy to glue (below to baseboard / above for track and scenic)? This would allow me cut in to seat buildings and install point controls etc. Any thoughts?

Extruded polystyrene sheets used for under floor insulation, as its rigid and can be carve and shaped nicely (good sound insulating properties also). Comes in all manner of thickness, I have boxes of the stuff as I use it to scribe brick/stone patterns onto for making walls of buildings for wargaming terrain.
Berescombe - 1930's fictional GWR build: http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=31337.0

Offline Bill Badger

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Northcote TMD
« Reply #26 on: Yesterday at 07:52:08 pm »
Slow-ish progress as I've been away a lot with work; did manage to spend a couple of evenings in my hotel room, sitting with a pint and putting chairs into the sleeper bases in the Finetrax kits. Back at home, I've got some cork down, transferred the track plan with carbon paper and, this last week, got some track down.



This front point and the track is the reference for getting all the rest in the right place. I'm not using fishplates and am using scale 60ft panels, if only because this is the length that is easily produced using the Finetrax jig; I tried making a longer length but with the code 40, the already slotted sleepers move as the track is pushed and it all ends up too wonky. The Finetrax point kits are excellent; fiddly as you might expect, given their size, but excellent.



This point and the approach track are now glued and have gone down nice and straight, using the Tracksettas recommended by Newportnobby. I also been able to fix a Cobalt under the board (the two obvious dropper wires are like that so they clear the casing) and that works really well with the Finetrax tiebar. A pushed wagon runs through nice and smoothly; there may be a couple of tweaks needed but all seems good. Next target is the rest of the 'front line' so I can wire up and test with a loco.
« Last Edit: Yesterday at 07:54:05 pm by Bill Badger »

 

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