A word of caution

Started by texhorse, February 05, 2018, 06:52:18 PM

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davidinyork

Quote from: texhorse on February 06, 2018, 11:17:41 AM
I originally put this up here to try and show people that putting too many appliances through the circuitry may have dire consequences.  I was naive, but lucky nothing has happened.

On any extension from a standard socket (which is what this is), add together all the fuse ratings of the applicances you want to connect to it. If it comes to more than 13*, don't do it. Yes, it will probably work if it's a bit over 13 unless all the applicances are drawing close to their fuse rating, but it simply isn't worth the risk.

*assuming that any 4-way adapter used is also rated at 13amps

themadhippy

QuoteAs I understand it, any wiring to a shed should come direct from the main Consumer Unit, or 'Fuse Box' on a dedicated circuit. That is also where any RCD should be located.
No you  can  run a  fused spur off the ring final,only drawback there is your limited to 13A max load
Quotea heavy duty plug is fitted with a five amp fuse (Why did yours not blow? - even a 1500 watt heater draws more than 5 amps). The armoured sleeve round the cable is bonded to earth through the RCD socket.
Steal wire armour is not and never was intended to be terminated into a plug. And now we open up a bigger and potential more dangerous problem,the earthing arrangement,put simple its best not to take your earth from the household supply,instead use an earth spike at the shed end.
QuoteI thought lighting circuit switches were typically rated for 10A,
plate switches rated for 20A are common enough and look just like a normal light switch,its only when you turn em round and see there double pole that the games given away

freedom of speech is but a  fallacy.it dosnt exist here

colpatben

#32
Quote from: texhorse on February 06, 2018, 11:17:41 AM
Or you do what I did today, and stop asking so much from your power supply.

I originally put this up here to try and show people that putting too many appliances through the circuitry may have dire consequences.  I was naive, but lucky nothing has happened.

I've learned my lesson. 

Andy
UK

On a final note from me this link should be a good starting place for all those who are Installing/using electricity in an outbuilding.

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php/Taking_electricity_outside


"Be EXTRA Careful Out There'
We never have problems, only solutions!

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Colin

daffy

Quote from: themadhippy on February 06, 2018, 11:32:36 AM
QuoteAs I understand it, any wiring to a shed should come direct from the main Consumer Unit, or 'Fuse Box' on a dedicated circuit. That is also where any RCD should be located.
No you  can  run a  fused spur off the ring final,only drawback there is your limited to 13A max load

Thanks for the clarification. :thumbsup: My comment was based upon my electricians conclusion for what I had initially planned for my shed, where the total amp usage could have exceeded 13amps.

:beers:
Mike

Sufferin' succotash!

first timer

I,ve had a sertified electrition look at my problem to put power into my shed but I have not got a spare ring on my main consumer box but he says he can take a supply off the double socket on the wall which runs directly to the main box, is this safe? or is there another way or an add on to the main box which can be fitted?

    Les.

The Q

Yes it is safe but it limits you to 13A total load in the shed, so NO, 3 bar fires, plus lights, plus soldering Iron, plus railway transformers.
If you can make do with a 2KW heater in the shed, would leave you 4 amps spare (roughly to run the rest).

If you want a 3Kw Fire and a kettle in the shed. Then you need an extension to, or bigger replacement of, the consumer unit. So you can have a proper ring main to the shed.

I've had to go further, with the shed having it's own consumer unit, but then there could be a heater either end of the shed, 3 fridges to run, me soldering away and then SWMBO would put the kettle on...

first timer

I will be using, 1 light standard bulb, 1, double track controller 1 amp per track, and a heater which is a low usage of 400 or 800 watts, what do you think?

The Q

That will be well below the 13A amp limit on a spur.

Heater 800W = about 3.5 A.
One flourescent light bulb (big) 15W= less than 0.1A
1 dual gaugemaster (or similar) is on a 3 Amp Fuse.
Large Soldering Iron 50W = about 0.2 A

total 6.8 Amps.

So you'd still have plenty spare for a spot light or the like if you are under the layout...


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