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Author Topic: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?  (Read 1064 times)

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Offline Carmont

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DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« on: April 28, 2018, 05:55:35 pm »
Having struggled over the last few days to make a batch of N Gauge DG Couplings, a combination of shaky hands and very poor near sightedness, means that the project has ended in abject disaster. I can manage to fold the main etch, but getting the latch to lock into the main fret (by bending the tabs) and bending and inserting the loop is beyond me. It's actually quite upsetting.

Is there anyone on the forum who would be prepared to make some for me? Ultimately I could be looking for around a hundred, but initially fifty to begin with, although there is no great hurry for them.

Anyone interested in a commission for making these, please reply by PM with a rough idea of how much you'd be looking for.

 

Thanks for reading.

Offline Platy767

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2018, 12:09:34 pm »
Hi Carmont. I don't want to dissuade you from using the DG coupling, but I share your difficulty with this one. I found making the loop and dropper slightly difficult, even with the loop jig. I moved over to testing the BB coupling (and once again it is a hand made small coupler), but it has an etched loop. Perhaps you also might find it slightly easier to manage. This chap also has some tips for the bb.

https://modelrailmusings.weebly.com/bb-couplings.html

Mark

Offline littlegs

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #2 on: July 07, 2018, 05:34:18 pm »
Hi Carmont,
I make the loops and dropper from 1 piece of the soft iron wire that is included with the etch and not the phosphor bronze wire as per the instructions. Use the jig and it comes off roughly the shape of a squared off question mark and you carefully thread it into the holes  of the folded up etch. The dropper is positioned in the centre between the pivot holes.
To insert the latch I hold it in a small vice with the tangs upwards. The slot in the folded up etch is then positioned on it and using a fine bladed screwdriver carefully spread the tangs sideways to lock it in place.
I will take some photos and add them to this post to make things clearer
Regards Chris

You can buy the wire from Eileenís Emporium.
They do get magnetised after a while but are quite easy to replace.

Offline PLD

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #3 on: July 07, 2018, 11:27:43 pm »
As per Platy767, I'd recommend the B&Bs over D&Gs. I have done B&Bs on commission before. I will NOT do D&Gs because they are so fiddly and take so much longer to assemble that no-one with any sense would pay what it would have to be to make it worth my while...

see also this thread:
http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=6670.msg77836#msg77836

Offline paulprice

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #4 on: July 08, 2018, 10:25:46 pm »
I had bought some D&G couplings at the York show a couple of years ago, and thought I would finally try and make them.

However reading this thread maybe its not worth the hassle, are the B&B ones that much better?

Offline PLD

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2018, 07:44:28 am »
I had bought some D&G couplings at the York show a couple of years ago, and thought I would finally try and make them.

However reading this thread maybe its not worth the hassle, are the B&B ones that much better?
To be fair the DGs are a bit finer in appearance and are seemingly the coupling of choice for the majority of 2mm finescale modellers so can be made to work well with patience/experience/skill...

You could do what I did before setting on B&Bs - obtain a small trial batch of several different types and see which you personally get on with best taking into account assembly and operation...

Offline Platy767

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2018, 10:19:20 am »
Hi paulprice. I would definitely take PLD's advice and try a packet of each. (and maybe try a Kadee, sorry, Microtrains, as well). The microtrains couplers are available ready made as well as rta, but would be expensive if you want to convert a lot of stock. I started going down the microtrains path after trying the D&G, B&B and Kadee many years ago, but my modelling was interrupted, so I'm looking to revisit the coupler issue myself. I have a very tight setrack curve on my current board, so this may limit what I can use - and the standard rapido coupling prevents buffer lock.

There is nothing better for couplers than trying to build some, install and negotiate your own layout to identify what works in your situation.

Cheers,
Mark

Online Bealman

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #7 on: July 09, 2018, 10:32:21 am »
I have admired Kadee/ Microtrains couplers for decades, but  worry about their use on small lightweight wheelbase 4 wheel UK wagons.
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Offline belstone

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #8 on: July 09, 2018, 11:43:42 am »
I have admired Kadee/ Microtrains couplers for decades, but  worry about their use on small lightweight wheelbase 4 wheel UK wagons.

I have a fair bit of experience with these couplers.  They have advantages and disadvantages.  On the upside they are beautifully engineered and manufactured to very tight tolerances, couple up with the gentlest of nudges and have a reliable delayed uncoupling function.  They are available in a variety of different mountings and lengths including a very handy T-shank adapter for Rapido coupler pockets.

Downsides: they are absolutely 100% incompatible with NEM coupler pockets.  The height setting is designed around American prototypes and the bottom of the bufferbeam will usually need to be cut away to give clearance on bogie mounted couplers.  They are very fussy about the design of uncoupler magnet as the trip pins need to be drawn sideways rather than downwards which is hard to achieve with electromagnets or under-track hidden magnets.  With permanent magnets and light four wheeled wagons the last wagon in a train will tend to uncouple as it is drawn over the magnets. And finally there is a tendency for lightweight wagons to oscillate back and forth in a train due to the couplers being lightly sprung lengthways in their pockets.

The usual solution for the last two problems is to add extra drag to the affected wagons, easily done by slipping small coil springs over the ends of the axle pinpoints. This however limits the length of trains that smaller locos can handle.  For diesels and bogie vehicles I would choose the Microtrains knuckles without a doubt, but they gave me enough problems on short wheelbase wagons that I ended up developing my own coupler design.  Which reminds me, I really must finish the instructions for those...

Richard

Offline Platy767

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #9 on: July 09, 2018, 11:48:16 am »
Hi Bealman. I'm not trying to take this thread away from D&Gs, but can you "please explain" (a term made infamous by an Australian politician, and I see that Bealman is from the 'gong) the concerns you have with the microtrains coupler? I think they are somewhat popular with the exhibiting East coast N scale community down here - but of course, usually not on lightweight 4 wheel stock.

There is probably already a thread about microtrains couplers. I should have a look.

Offline Ian Morton

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #10 on: July 09, 2018, 11:59:21 am »
Free running light weight 4-wheel wagons will skitter off down the track at the slightest nudge. Whatever coupling you use - to successfully couple with an 'out of the box' Farish or simiar wagon it needs to couple with a force less than the rolling resistance of the wagon - which is a big ask of any system.

Adding rolling resistance (springs over an axle end or foam between chassis and axle) will help, as will adding weight. These will also help to reduce the oscilation on long trains evident with some couplings.

Whatever system you adopt they all rely on the following:
  • Couplings correctly and accruately assembled/formed and operating freely
  • Couplings mounted at the correct height and distance from buffer beam
  • Gentle treatment - it is easy to deform or damage couplings with rough handling
  • Controllable locomotives. You can't get the couplings to kiss if the loco lurches and stutters
« Last Edit: July 09, 2018, 12:00:53 pm by Ian Morton »

Offline Caz

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #11 on: July 09, 2018, 08:25:42 pm »
I've tried a whole range of couplers, still got packets and packets of D&G, B&B, M&B(?), MT's etc but for ease of use you just cant beat the NEM Dapol EasyShunts, they just work and that is using automatic shunting on Claywell. All I've done is very carefully sited them and they work every time.   My three penny worth.

Offline Newportnobby

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #12 on: July 09, 2018, 08:27:40 pm »
I always thought M & B was another ghastly bitter (i.e. Mitchell & Butler) :dunce:

Offline PLD

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #13 on: July 09, 2018, 09:23:08 pm »
MBM, designed by Mike Bryant, a well known 2mm fs modeller...  ;)

Online Bealman

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Re: DG Couplings - Anyone prepared to make some for me?
« Reply #14 on: July 10, 2018, 05:34:02 am »
Hi Bealman. I'm not trying to take this thread away from D&Gs, but can you "please explain" (a term made infamous by an Australian politician, and I see that Bealman is from the 'gong) the concerns you have with the microtrains coupler? I think they are somewhat popular with the exhibiting East coast N scale community down here - but of course, usually not on lightweight 4 wheel stock.

There is probably already a thread about microtrains couplers. I should have a look.

Basically, Belstone has summed it up in reply #8 above. I'm thinking particularly about Peco wagons with plastic wheels, which are extremely lightweight.

Probably the answer would be to have a fixed rake joined by Peco Elsie couplings, with a Kadee on each end.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2018, 09:46:35 am by Bealman »
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

 

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