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Author Topic: Escafeld Midland (Closed)  (Read 3951 times)

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Offline Train Waiting

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Re: Escafeld Midland (I must be mad)
« Reply #60 on: July 29, 2017, 07:06:47 pm »
Escafeld

This is truly amazing modelling.  Many congratulations on such a splendid achievement.

I built several Highland Railway turnouts in P4 some years ago.  The ones with the interlaced timbering.

The experience has put me off hand building track ever since (and probably put me off P4 as well!).

Then I see what you have achieved in 'N' Gauge...

I'm now going to read your thread from the beginning.

With all best wishes.

John

Online weave

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Re: Escafeld Midland (I must be mad)
« Reply #61 on: July 29, 2017, 07:12:07 pm »
Hi,

As said, great stuff. Am in complete awe and looking forward to more.

Cheers weave  :beers:

Offline Webbo

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Re: Escafeld Midland (I must be mad)
« Reply #62 on: July 29, 2017, 11:18:52 pm »
That's a great looking piece of trackwork, Escafeld. Well done.

It's going to look even better once you get it weathered and ballasted.

How long did it take you to make it?

Webbo
« Last Edit: July 30, 2017, 05:54:41 am by Webbo »

Steamie+

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Re: Escafeld Midland (I must be mad)
« Reply #63 on: July 30, 2017, 05:43:59 am »
Agree with above, what a serious bit of work. Excellent workmanship.    :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Online Bealman

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Re: Escafeld Midland (I must be mad)
« Reply #64 on: July 30, 2017, 07:18:52 am »
Excellent piece of scratchbuilding.  :thumbsup:
Vision over visibility. Bono, U2.

Offline daveg

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Re: Escafeld Midland (I must be mad)
« Reply #65 on: July 30, 2017, 07:37:30 am »
More than impressed!

Looking forward to the next series of updates.

Dave G

Offline escafeld

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Re: Escafeld Midland (Closed)
« Reply #66 on: August 14, 2017, 01:01:00 pm »
As you will see from my post above I have decided to leave this forum. Thank you for those who have made kind comments and will miss my posts (I wasn't even sure if anybody was that interested). I haven't changed my mind about leaving but it is a pity (in my opinion) that a few members seem to spoil this forum for the many. If in a few months time this forum has improved (I see that there are some new mods), I may resume posting but I currently don't see that happening, but you never know what the future holds.

Anyway getting back on track (for the last time)

Before all the above occurred I was going to write a tutorial, with photos, on how to solder wire to the track without the wire being seen. I had already prepared the text but needed to construct another join to be able to take step by step photos to post alongside the text

The text is below with a photo of the finished join (which I have previously posted on another thread)

I take no credit for this method of soldering the wire to track as it was described in the 2mmSA magazine by Laurie Adams.

I would add that I'm a novice with a soldering iron. I've now made a total of eight soldered joints (and not managed to burn my fingers yet). As I suggested on one of my earlier posts on this forum (about hammering thumbs) always show the tool the respect deserves it's much less painful that way.

Tools I used (nothing special and modellers may well have in their toolbox already)

  • Antex XS25 soldering iron with a 1mm flat bit
  • Easy Print solder paste Sn62 Pb36 Ag2 (from eBay or 2mmSA) with a blunt syringe needle fitted (the syringe needle is not necessarily needed I just find it easier to apply a small amount of solder paste.)
  • 0.7mm copper wire (approx 5cm in length)
  • Silverline Archimedes drill
  • 0.7mm drill bit
  • Swann Morton No.3 Scalpel Handel with a #10a blade
  • Non-ribbed pliers
  • Small file

This wire is attached once the track is fixed to the board (so no lining up track with pre drilled holes), but before weathering and ballasting. The track I used is fiNetrax code 40, but the method should work equally well with Peco track

  • Remove an outside chair with a scalpel (this will be replaced with the brass wire)
  • Drill a 0.7mm hole through the sleeper and basebaord next to the rail where chair has been removed.
  • Flatten approx 1mm of brass wire using the non-ribbed pliers. File the flattened area to 0.75 mm high by the width of the chair it is replacing (0.95mm for fiNetrax). Carefully bend over the flattened area of brass wire to approx 60 degrees. The angle isn't to critical and may need adjusting in the next step
  • Feed the brass wire through the hole in the sleeper and ensure the fit is correct against the side of the rail. Some adjustments to the bend in the wire may be needed here. It should end up looking like the chair it has replaced.
  • Apply a very small amount of solder paste to the webbing of the track. Using the soldering iron apply a small amount of pressure to the brass wire to push it against the rail, hold until the solder melts, then remove.
  • Ballast and weather the track.

The hardest part (well not that hard) was getting the brass wire to stay in place before applying the soldering iron as you only have access above the base board.

What I would suggest is to try this method on a piece of spare track, it really is easy.

The photo below was my second attempt at soldering the brass wire to the rail, for the first attempt I used standard 1mm resin core solder. I found I couldn't get a small enough amount of solder on the join, although an experienced solderer may. Using solder paste made this very easy.




In the photo the brass wire replaced the chair third from the right. The rail/sleeper colour and ballast were just for testing purpose.

If anybody has any questions about the above leave a comment below and I will reply later in the week.
« Last Edit: August 14, 2017, 07:19:49 pm by escafeld »

Offline RichardBattersby

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Re: Escafeld Midland (I must be mad)
« Reply #67 on: August 14, 2017, 02:00:35 pm »
Escafeld, I'm afraid you've precisely illustrated why you are an asset to this forum and the modelling community. Your work is among the best and I, like many others on here, am intrigued by what you are building and am filled with intrigue and awe just thinking about your plan. Your location, time period and method of modelling have kept me following your progress very closely. You, very clearly, have a lot to offer this forum and I for one implore you to stay, if only to keep us updated with your magnificent layout. It's great when people post pictures and have discussion about their layout but, as a novice myself, I find high quality, instructional posts like your last one extremely useful. You can stay only if it is right for you, but please do bear in mind what you're giving other people. By staying and writing your layout thread you're giving many people enjoyment and information and making the forum and N gauge a better place. If all the good people leave, we're left with just the idiots. I won't comment on the fracas as your original post was the first news of it so I'll just agree with others and say, ignore them and report anything offensive.

Please do reconsider.
Edit: just seen Tanks post. Clearly a complicated matter which I don't understand but I forgot to ask my question: where did you source the 0.7mm wire, and does it flatten ok with pliers? I'm guessing you then put it through the board and solder a dropper to it underneath?
« Last Edit: August 14, 2017, 02:14:32 pm by RichardBattersby »
Richard
Askham Battersby MKII - NE/Midland Modular Layout

"We don't stop playing because we get old, we get old because we stop playing."

Offline escafeld

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Re: Escafeld Midland (I must be mad)
« Reply #68 on: August 14, 2017, 06:32:50 pm »
where did you source the 0.7mm wire, and does it flatten ok with pliers? I'm guessing you then put it through the board and solder a dropper to it underneath?


The brass wire came from eBay trader metalclays4you 3.09 for 10 meters, despatched same day arrived 2 days latter. There will be other traders selling similar and maybe cheaper but for the price I didn't look anywhere else

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unplated-Half-Hard-Brass-Round-Wire-0-4mm-to-4-0mm-Jewelry-Making-Wire-Craft-/321354972822

It flattens easily with pliers, but they must be non-ribbed (smooth) otherwise you will get a ribbed pattern in the brass.

Yes, the wire is pushed through the board when it is soldered to the rail, depending on your board thickness you may need more than 50mm of wire. The wire will then be soldered to a DCC bus wire/dc feed wire, alternatively it could connected to a connection block to connect to your power supply. 


 

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